[1] In those days fraternising with the crew was frowned upon (scientists were classed as officers, remember). Most of the crew were drawn from the “Pool of Seamen” and the research ships, with their long periods at sea, were not a popular choice. One steward told how, before the cruise, two of them had stolen a car and ended up swimming in Barry Docks. He said the magistrate had let them off without a prison sentence because going to sea on the research ship was sentence enough!
[2] wandering around town in a group trying to decide which bar or restaurant to choose (when none were known to us) was a normal happening during research ship port calls. The bar we ended up in was a piece of luck because, once it was known that we had sailed from a place in Wales, the rugby connection meant the bar stayed open late!
[3] Hearing that we were driving to Monaco, Henry Charnock had given us a letter of introduction to Rosie Bernard who ran the Chatham Bar. “Rosies” is remembered for it’s
connection with motor racing, the walls sported photographs and other memorabilia. However Wikipedia also lists its connection with Hydrographers, which had presumably arisen because the headquarters of the International Hydrographic Bureau were in Monaco. Presumably that was how Henry knew Rosie, he must have made a good impression because we were welcomed with open arms!
[4] founded by Prince Albert I on Monaco in 1910, in 1970 the director was Jacques-Yves Cousteau. The scientists we talked to were not happy with his policies, suggesting that the emphasis on activities such as the TV series “The Undersea World of Jacques Cousteau” was diverting too much of the funding from scientific research.
[5] despite the package holiday boom in the mid-sixties, in 1970 foreign travel was still not that common. Our aim in driving into Italy was to get our passports stamped but at the border the customs officials just waived us to proceed. Instead, we insisted that they stamped our passports. This it seemed implied much more work for them because if they stamped our passports they first had to be sure that we were not criminals. After some delay we were allowed through with our passports stamped. We were somewhat embarrassed to return across their border so took the inland toll road instead!
[6] probably included toothpaste and sun cream. definitely not soap. There was a regulation soap issue on the ship which meant one returned from a cruise with enough soap to last many months!
We dock in Toulon; use hire cars to drive to Monaco and visit the Oceanographic Museum and Rosies Bar; leave Toulon into a gale…
Monaco
Thursday (12 Feb): Woke up well in sight of land and docked by 0930CET. Went ashore for drink having already had drinks in stewards cabin 1 (secretly). After lunch I set out alone and climbed hill over the town – magnificent views of the ports, naval ships, islands, etc.
Walking along the quayside met others in travel agent and hired cars for tomorrow. After tea we drove out to a beach and looked at boats. Then returned to the ship and went out in a group to a bar, everything pretty dead so we joined the others in the Galleon restaurant – pizza fromage, chateaubriand. Afterwards wandered through town and ended in bar used by Toulon rugby supporters club 2 rugby.
Driving along the Côte D’Azur
Friday (13 Feb): Set off about 0840 for Monaco stopping for coffee on the way. Superb coast road, snow covered mountains, red sandstone, beautiful hot sunny day. Arrived 1330CET at Rosie’s Chatham bar 3 Henry & Rosie, had lunch and drove over to the Oceanographic Institute (Musée Océanographique de Monaco 4 Cousteau).
Saw the Museum, Aquarium and Radiology labs. Walked back to Rosies for tea,then split up – one car returning [to Toulon] while Geoff Morrison, Mike McCartney, Dave Brown and I stayed to look at the Casino and gardens and then drove to the border near Menton and visited Ventimiglia in Italy 5 to Italy.
The hard won stamp showing I went into Italy!
Returned via turnpike and got back about 0300CET after stop for coffee in Nice.
Saturday (14 Feb): Looked around market in morning and bought one or two necessities 6 not soap. Also odd souvenirs, etc. In afternoon went into town and bought coffee and book. Sailed at 1700 into a rough sea. Hove to at 10pm – 50 knot wind.
Photo Gallery: Driving to Monaco…
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